ARTWEAR
Having
gotten my degree in Fashion Design, this is still my first love.
Clothing speaks volumes about the wearer. Working in three dimensions,
retaining the drape and flow of the fabric and striving for
elegance are factors that keep me challenged. It has
been an honor to be invited ten times to participate in the
Fairfield and Bernina Fashion Shows. I love having an excuse
to let go of the restrictions that come with designing for myself.
But even when I am creating something that must “read
well” on the runway, I prefer to NOT stray too far from
the concept of wearability.
Snow White & Rose Red
I
had been playing around with sketches of a bolero
jacket with a pointed back that would trail ribbon
streamers. A fairy tale gave me the title as well
as my color inspiration - the idea of playing red
against white. The velvet jacket, quilted with many
lines of stitching and couched-down yarns, is edged
in ribbon roses. Overlapping layers of sheers form
the dress. I cut holes in the layers and machine embroidered
lacy snowflakes across the spaces. The top layer
is made entirely out of threads sewn on water-soluble
stabilizer; a blizzard of snowflakes. Iridescent
sequins and beads give the dress some sparkle. The rose-covered
heart-shaped bag was fun to make.
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Evening Glories
Inspired by my favorite flower, I used my Trash Bag Quilting technique to lay out the coat sections and achieve the shading. Ribbon flowers twine up the coat. The cotton sateen lining is dye-painted. I always wanted to try making a dress in the style of Mariano Fortuny. My friends helped me to hand-stitch 93 lines of gathering threads across the fabric, crucial to achieving the delicate pleats. I mixed five strengths of four different blue dyes in order to dye the silk. What I’ve read about the original Fortuny dresses seems to be true: this dress fits and looks great on absolutely everyone.
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Margaret’s Glasgow Rose
The simplified rose that borders this skirt can be seen in much of the artwork by Magaret MacDonald Mackintosh, the wife of Scottish architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh. They collaborated on many projects but, until recently, he was often credited with some of her work. My roses are sandwiched between two layers of sheers, with a rose satin lining adding a bit more color. I used my Trash Bag Quilting technique to create the bodice, adding buttons, charms, bits of lace and ribbons to the fabric scraps. Wire-edged ribbons form the flowers that circle the neckline.
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Still Crazy After All These Years
Working with a dark palette of colors, I knew that the placement of each bit of lace would be very important, because the lace stands out so much. I stopped often to look at my crazy-piecing from a distance. My fabrics include old ties and narrow ribbons woven together. The lace jabot was a fragment of a vintage dress.
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Dressed For Success
The panels of Rookwood tiles that grace the Carew Tower in Cincinnati have fascinated me since I was a child. For this ensemble, I chose a mix of woolens and Ultrasuede, machine appliquéing the art deco-style flowers and leaves onto the vest and the shoulders of the flowing swing coat. Keeping the appliqués up around the shoulders allowed the soft wool flannel to retain its lovely drape. Living in a more temperate climate these days, I do not get to work with wool very often. What a joy it is to sew!
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Pink & Gray
I made this vest for myself and have worn it for years. Many small but sturdy fragments of treasured old laces are sewn into it. The embroidery is not as elaborate as that which I would do nowadays, but simply finishing it was a real accomplishment for me. I advise my students to choose a limited palette of colors; two or three of your favorites, then vary the textures. You will love the completed garment and it will surely go with clothing already in your closet.
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Celadon Vest
I made this vest for myself and have worn it for years. Many small but sturdy fragments of treasured old laces are sewn into it. The embroidery is not as elaborate as that which I would do nowadays, but simply finishing it was a real accomplishment for me. I advise my students to choose a limited palette of colors; two or three of your favorites, then vary the textures. You will love the completed garment and it will surely go with clothing already in your closet.
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Vintage Trash Vest
I made this vest for myself and have worn it for years. Many small but sturdy fragments of treasured old laces are sewn into it. The embroidery is not as elaborate as that which I would do nowadays, but simply finishing it was a real accomplishment for me. I advise my students to choose a limited palette of colors; two or three of your favorites, then vary the textures. You will love the completed garment and it will surely go with clothing already in your closet.
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